Simple way to make a quilted potHolder from Fabric scraps or fat quarters

This post may contain affiliate links, I will be compensated for purchases made through these links at no additional cost to you. Thank you for your support!
​​

       I think that I have a fabric addiction! Now that one major fabric retailer has closed its doors, I've been on the lookout for all of the sources of fabric I can.  It is as if I can't get enough of it!  And then, when I have the fabric, I look and it and try to decide what I want to do with all of this beautiful stuff!  It is so much fun and the fabric is so beautiful to me that I want to use every last scrap of it.  A project using scraps was necessary! Not to mention the collection of fat quarters that I can never resist! 
      I came across a way to make a quilted tote bag that seemed simple, and I thought it would be great to convert that method to making potholders or hot pads!  I've been needing some new ones and after I made a few  I decided that  they would make great gifts, because I certainly didn't need as many as I was making! I can't stop myself! It is so much fun to choose the colors and prints to put together.   If you click Read More, I've laid out a complete tutorial to help you start making your own fabulous quilted potholders. Warning: Addicting! 

     To begin, go through your scraps and/or fat quarters and put together the fabrics that you want to use.  I have made these potholders two ways:  25 patch in 5x5 rows, or as 9 patch.  Here are two examples.

   These take 5 fabrics cut into 5 squares each making 25 squares in all.  

     This 9 patch version takes 3 fabrics cut into 3 squares each making 9 squares.  

     Each of these versions use the same technique, the 5 fabric version is slightly more time consuming, but not bad!  The 9 patch version is probably the easiest way to start, so that is the one I will be demonstrating in this tutorial. 

9 Patch Quilted Potholder-Materials List

• Approx. 10 x 4 inch piece of 3 different fabrics  (I like a mix of different sized prints in coordinating colors) Cut these pieces into equal 3x3 squares.
• 10 x 10 inch piece of fabric for the backing.  It can be the same as one of the front fabrics or something different that coordinates. 
• 1 strip of fabric for the hanging loop.  This strip can be like the backing and/or one of the front designs.  Cut this strip 1.5" x 5".   
• Fusible interfacing
• Wrap-N-Zap Batting, two 10" x 10" pieces.
• coordinating thread
• pins or clips
• sewing machine (one that can handle slightly heavy duty work.  My Singer Brilliance did okay, but I did break a couple of needles on some of the thick parts).
• scissors and rotary cutter if available for more accuracy​​​​​
• hot iron and ironing board or pad

Sewing Instructions:

     It doesn't really matter what size you make your potholder.  You can make it larger or smaller than I am giving you the directions for.  The size of the squares will determine the finished size.  If you only have smaller scraps that only allow you to make 2 inch squares, those will be great for the 25 patch potholder, or you can make a much smaller  hot pad.  I've made many sizes, depending on what I had.  
​

Step 1 is to cut out your squares of fabric and to lay them out on the interfacing, with the shiny or fusible side against the wrong side of the fabric squares.  Try to butt them up against each other, but small gaps are okay, they will be hidden!  When you have the design that you want, use the iron to fuse them in place.  Trim away any excess interfacing.

As you can see, small gaps are fine, but try to line up those corners and lines. Don't mind the wet spot on my fabric, my iron leaked. This is how you know that I am not AI! Lol!

Here is how the 25 patch will look when ironed in place. This one has smaller gaps because I used a rotary cutter to get more precise cuts on this one.

Step 2 is to stitch up the hanging loop. 

I like to stitch up my hanging loop first to get that out of the way. Take your 5" piece of fabric and iron it in half, then open it up and fold the edges to the center of the strip.

Fold the strip in half again so the raw edges are on the inside. Don't worry about the ends, they will be taken care of later.

Now, stitch the strip closed down the open side. Set aside until needed.

Step 3 is to add a piece of batting to the back of your interfacing.  Trim the batting to match the size of the interfacing.

Step 4 will be to stitch the rows by folding the first row over, right sides together and sew a 1/2 inch seam down the fold.  Look at this picture: 

I have the batting clipped to the back of the interfacing. I folded the first row of squares over to face the middle row of squares and clipped that in place.

Next, fold the middle section over to face the 3rd row of squares and once again, stitch a 1/2" seam on the fold again.

Then, I stitched 1/2 inch away from the fold. If you have very wide gaps between your squares, you may need to sew a little big wider seam, but hopefully you don't have gaps that are 1/2" wide.

At this point, the back of your piece will look like this.

Now, you will turn your piece a 1/4 turn and repeat the process with the vertical rows.  I like to press and clip in place the seams from the first two rows so that they lay in the same direction.  This will make it easier to sew over them as you sew the remaining rows.  

Make the quarter turn and sew the intersecting seams.

The back will end up looking like this!

The front will look like this, after you press it flat with your iron.

Step 5 is to cut the second piece of batting to the size that the potholder is now.  Clip or pin it to the back of the piece against the first piece of batting. 

This is a different type of batting, but using the Wrap-N-Zap is best in order to make this potholder microwavable. I had been making so many, I ran out! You can see the seams through this piece of batting. This second piece of batting will help give a less bumpy finish to the potholder.

Step 6 is when you will attach the hanging loop to the top of the potholder.  You could attach it to the corner if you would prefer, I just like it in the middle of the top. 

Make a loop with the previously sewn strip and attach it with a pin, laying it upside down against the middle top square. (You decide where the top is!)

Stitch the loop in place with about 1/4 inch seam, then remove the pin. When you turn the potholder right side out, the loop will face up and the raw edges on the ends will be hidden inside the potholder.

Step 7 is cutting out the backing fabric to the size of the rest of the piece and pinning or clipping it right side down to the front of the piece.  

I used one of the same fabrics that I had used in the 9 patches as the backing fabric. Here it is upside down against the patch side of the piece.

Pin or clip this in place and stitch around with a 1/2" seam allowance, leave a generous opening for turning on one of the sides.   I prefer it not to be the side with the loop.  

When finished stitching around, turn right side out by pulling the inside through the opening between the front patches and the backing fabric.  Push the corners out very well and press everything flat. 

​Turn the opening seam allowance to the inside and pin in place. 
​

Pin the opening shut, then stitch all of the way around the entire piece. Remove the pins.

Step 8 is to stitch in the ditch in one direction.  Originally I thought I would do this in both directions, but I decided that just one way looked good and was enough. 

Stitch in the ditch down the vertical seamlines.

The back will look like this. Simple and sweet.

---

     And there you have it!  A simple quilted potholder that you can customize for any kitchen decor or holiday!  Once you get the hang of it, you can whip this out quickly!  They would be great to sell at a craft sale, as well as for gift giving, and of course for yourself!  Happy Sewing! 
​

More Sewing Posts You Will Love! 

• Flared Skirt
• Beginner 9 Patch Baby Quilt
• Sew a Rucksack from Old Jeans
• ​Fabric Scrap Basket
• Make a Harvest Apron​
• Sew an Infinity Scarf